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On the outside, Eis Ygeian looks like a typical kafeneio. A blast-from-the-past cafe with simple tables and chairs, neon lights and slightly decadent music. If it wasn't for the recommendation of a friend, I'd never pass its doorstep. Looks can deceive and in this case they do. It was a Saturday night, hot and humid, the weather that calls for ouzo. Most of the tables were full...